Vultures (the Good Kind) Making a Comeback
Cambodia’s vulture population, which have been missing in action since the 1970s, have made a small comeback, according to Agence Kampuchea Presse. About 120 birds were found in Stung Treng and other northeast areas.

Tourists Transforming Ethnic Hill Tribes Areas
Tourist traffic to Ratanakiri’s hill-tribe areas could triple (up from a whopping 3,000 last year). But even this small number of tourists will transform the hill-tribe heavy area, according to the latest edition of The Phnom Penh Post.

Tourism classes are being set up, land is now going for hundreds more than it used to and basic services like a hospital and electricity are spreading. But the hill-tribe, the Phnong, don’t see many of the benefits.

This means that the Phnong's traditional way of life - where they clear new rice fields every few years - is likely to come under increased pressure. "My fear for the future is that one day when the Phnong want to clear another field, someone will show up and say 'This is my land'," Braden Pewitt says.

Browse the entire paper.

Killing Prehistory
The Associated Press reports on artifact looting. Cambodia’s weak government and porous borders make this a hard crime to stop. Tourists have to restrain themselves from turning one country’s previous history into a living-room bauble. We hope everyone who reads this blog acts honorably.

Asian Rail Line to Run Through Cambodia
Cambodia got critical funding for part of a rail system that will run from Southern China through Singapore, according to the Vietnam News Agency.

Government Moves From One Crisis To Another
Concerns are growing Cambodia’s commitment to the principles of its democracy. The Phnom Penh Post (subscription required) writes about King Norodom Sihanouk’s concerns and VOA sites to rights groups criticisms.

KNOWING CAMBODIA: The Phnom Penh Post
Think you need journalism experience to start your own paper? Think again. $50,000, two computers, and a fax machine will do. That’s all Michael Hayes and Kathleen O’Keefe, formerly husband and wife, used when they started The Phnom Penh Post twelve years ago.

The paper is published every two weeks and is one of two English-language papers in the country (along with The Cambodia Daily). The Post charges for full online access to its paper, but regularly makes a handful of stories available for free. It is one of the most credible news sources in the country.

Michael Hayes, who holds a graduate degree in international studies, was looking for work, while traveling from Bangkok to Cambodia. “There was no [independent] paper, so I thought probably I should start one,” Hayes told The Associated Press. He continued, “Starting the paper that first year was…really rewarding. People were reading the paper; they liked it. It was new, fresh.”

The Khmer Rouge regime-blamed for 1.7 million deaths-dissolved in 1979. But even in the 1990s, Cambodia was still feeling its aftermath. 1993 marked the beginnings of a democracy. Hayes got permission from King Norodom Sinanouk to begin his paper. But the paper was Cambodia’s government who scolded the paper for its heavy western influence, lack of objectivity, and balance. Today, government criticism has since faded and the Post proudly hails as the oldest and most comprehensive English-language news and views print source covering Cambodia.

The latest edition of The Post should be available later today or tomorrow.

KNOWING CAMBODIA is a weekly feature on the Santepheap Weblog that highlights organizations, people and other things that give insight into Cambodia and overseas Cambodians. It appears every Thursday.

Are Cambodia’s Muslims Ripe for a Terrorist Turn?
Most travelers’ contacts with the Cham, Cambodia’s ethnic Muslims, will involve bartering for crab along the shores of Kep. Or perhaps peering into one of the many mosques built in the past decade.

But The American Prospect (abbreviated version online) suggests that a section of Cambodia’s Muslim community is being turned toward Saudi Arabia’s radical Wahhabism sect and the country is being used to filter money for terrorist groups.

Among the Saudi charities was one that showed up in Cambodia: the al-Haramain Islamic Foundation, which allegedly has laundered money to al-Qaeda in Southeast Asia and whose offices in at least 11 countries have been designated by the U.S. Treasury and the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia as supporters of terrorism. According to a former U.S. official who spoke under the condition of anonymity, al-Haramain operated in Cambodia under a "dual agenda" -- along with financial aid and humanitarian services, the organization brought in "personnel who did not seem to have connections to established humanitarian organizations, but who were instead linked to political Islam . . . associated with terrorist or political activities." U.S. and Cambodian intelligence found that some of the aid workers had spent time in Afghan training camps or had been affiliated with extremist movements in Arab countries, according to the official. In 2000, the U.S. Embassy detected some surveillance of the compound by several of the individuals and found that staff of the Saudi-based Om al-Qura Foundation, which headed the now-shuttered al-Mukara Islamic School, had begun recruiting Cambodians. These Cambodians were told that they were being sent on pilgrimages to Mecca or to schools in Pakistan or Egypt, "but once they left Cambodia, they were put into training camps," the official said.

The alleged terrorists may also have been drawn to the country as an attractive theater of logistical operations, according to the official and other scholars. One of the poorest countries in the world, Cambodia serves as a transit nation for amphetamines and heroin, has a cash-based, heavily dollarized economy, and "suffers from widespread corruption, including among officials at the highest levels of government," as the State Department's International Narcotics Control Strategy Report 2003 notes. Cambodia also runs a brisk trade in small arms left over from the Khmer Rouge period, sending them to international conflict zones including Sri Lanka. These conditions make Cambodia a convenient base from which to launder money, buy arms, forge documents, and perform any number of other tasks crucial to the smooth running of illegal activities, be they drug trafficking or planning terrorist attacks.

In addition, Cambodia's erratic control over its land and sea borders benefits potential terrorists who have used the country as a possible hideout. The porous borders also mean that Cambodian Muslims can easily be drawn into their neighbors' ongoing battles with Islamic insurgency and fundamentalism. This year, southern Thailand erupted with attacks on government schools and army outposts, allegedly led by Muslim separatists; in late April, more than 100 suspected Islamic insurgents died in bloody shootouts with Thai forces. The Thai media have implied that Cambodian students at Thai madrassas may have been involved in the attacks; other analysts connect the uprisings to Malaysian militants, who have a strong connection to the rising numbers of Cambodian adherents to Dakwah, an Islamic fundamentalist evangelical movement started in Malaysia.

But the most dangerous thing to pass through those porous borders may be fundamentalist ideology. As the U.S. official noted, al-Haramain and other "aid personnel" came to spread their own "very extreme and anti-modern form of Islam." That is particularly threatening to the Cham community, whose Islamic practices have traditionally been moderate and syncretic, reflecting their origins in the ancient, Hindu-influenced kingdom of Champa, located in what is now central Vietnam. Today, as the Cham struggle to rebuild their communities, fundamentalists and jihadists may have found a ripe target: an impoverished minority population in need of aid and a reconnection to Islam.

The Cham have had problems in the past -- one school was shut down last year for radical teachings. But widespread terrorist sympathies seem very unlikely. Although the idea of “back office” terrorist activity (money laundering, etc.) which the article mentions seems plausible.

Fears for the Evolution of Cambodian Democracy
Residual tensions over the new Cambodian government and recent junta-like actions are making people nervous at the pace of Cambodia’s fledgling democracy. King Norodom Sihanouk claims the political environment continues to decline, while Prime Minister Hun Sen is denying a split in his usually rock-solid Cambodia People’s Party.

Hun Sen’s threats against opposition leaders and the arrest of local rights workers and journalists are also worrisome.

Idealized. Otherworldly. Khmer Dance.
The Los Angeles Times (registration required) praised and profiled The Khmer Arts Academy.

The Lesson of David Wilson: You Are on Your Own
The Weekend Australian Magazine’s article (not online) on the death of tourist David Wilson is compelling read. It reveals the conflicts between the life of one adventurous tourist, the priorities of his government, political courage, ruthless killers, and an embryonic and largely incompetent Cambodia government.

Maybe the most valuable lesson in this tale is the limitations and the priorities of a home country can limit what can be done to rescue a hostage in trouble. This excerpt from the article shows how all the rescue plans in Australia were stopped when the government opted to let the Cambodians do the work.

On July 31, five days after David's capture, General Paet demanded $US50,000 in gold for each hostage - an amount that would escalate and change many times. This ransom ultimatum instantly highlighted the tensions between Australia's approach to the crisis and that taken by Cambodia.

Australia, understandably, said it would not pay any ransom for Wilson on the ground that this would encourage terrorists around the world to take other Australians hostage. Yet the Cambodian government was more than happy to pay the ransom, believing it was the best way to secure Wilson's release.

So a peculiar compromise was reached whereby the Australian Government turned a blind eye to Cambodia's attempts to arrange a ransom payment. Former ambassador Kevin explains: "Our official position was that our government would not be associated with ransom negotiations so we basically walked down the other side of the road while the Cambodian government tried to carry out a ransom strategy."

The Cambodian government was not the only one interested in paying a ransom for Wilson's release. His plight tugged at heartstrings back in Australia and prompted prominent businessmen to act. Melbourne Liberal Party identity Ron Walker led a brazen private push to obtain the ransom amount in gold ingots and deliver it to the KR. He spoke to gold mining executives Hugh Morgan and Robert de Crespigny, as well as former foreign affairs minister Andrew Peacock and then Victorian premier Jeff Kennett. Walker even arranged for a corporate jet from Coca-Cola chairman Dean Wills to be made available to fly the gold to Cambodia if necessary. The idea was abandoned only after Walker was warned against it by Peacock, Kennett and DFAT on the grounds that it would set a bad precedent, one that might encourage more hostage-taking.

Meanwhile, Peter Wilson also succeeded in raising the money by obtaining approval for a bank loan. He was deeply hurt when DFAT told him it wanted nothing to do with the plan. "I was stunned by this," he later said. "This stance by the Australian government made me feel isolated and for the first time I realised that the Australian government had a higher priority than David's life." It was the start of what would be a gradual alienation between the Wilson family and DFAT.

The Australian government had never experienced such a high-profile consular case in which the media on the ground were reporting events faster than the diplomats could. As a result, an under-resourced consular department in DFAT was constantly caught flat-footed in its attempts to keep the Wilson family informed of developments in Cambodia. "Every single thing of significance we learned about David came through the media, not through DFAT," Peter recalls bitterly. "I will always be angry at them because they ignored us."

The Khmer Rouge have long gone, but random banditry remains. One wonders what would happen if a tourist kidnapping situation happened. Could the Cambodian government do better? Would Australia (or any other country, for that matter) attempt a rescue?

Or would the tourist be dead again, but this time with less fanfare at the hands of anonymous killers?

Premier Cambodia-based Journalist Arrested, Freed
Kevin Doyle, editor of The Cambodia Daily and a reporter for other international publications, and two others were arrested and later freed while investigating the influx of ethnic Christian Vietnamese into Cambodia. Doyle, an Irishman, is one of the few Westerners who is fluent in Khmer and has broken a series of important stories in the past about the Montagnards.

Any lengthy detention of Doyle and the others would have indicated the Cambodian government was embracing a regime-like attitude instead of a democratic one. So their freedom is excellent news.

A Tourist’s Murder 10 Years Later
The Australian intensely reviews the death of David Wilson, a tourist who 10 years ago was kidnapped and murdered by remnants of the Khmer Rouge. The 3,500-word magazine article on Wilson is not online, but the Australian does include an article detailing Australia’s plot to free Wilson by paying off his captors.

Hun Sen Targeting ‘Radical’ Opposition Wing
Cambodia’s Prime Minister is cracking down on what he called a radical wing of the opposition Sam Rainsy Party, according to Agence Kampuchea Presse, which cites the Cambodia Daily. Hun Sen links the U.S.-based terrorist group, The Cambodian Freedom Fighters, to Rainsy (though party leader Sam Rainsy has denied this) . Australian Radio says U.S. politicians are concerned about Rainsy party members’ safety.

Honest Travel Tome With a Taxi-Driver Title
The Calgary Herald (article not online) thinks tourists may enjoy the new book Does Your Meter Work?, which includes some interesting stories about Cambodia, among other countries.

Many vignettes were written as Soliski travelled and his diary-style prose captures first impressions, not all rosy. This is not a "Gee, India's swell! You must visit" kind of book, but one that's not afraid to speak honestly about the culture shock, poverty and annoyances that make real travel eye-opening and hilarious.

Soliski, 43, travels "a la carte," winging it from place to place and making sure he asks if a taxi's meter works beforehand, instead of getting in and paying whatever the cab driver demands at the end of the ride.

The summaries section has images from two chapters about Cambodia.

Pookai On The Move Today. No Entries
Several members of The Pookai staff are on the move today addressing personal issues. There will be no entries today.

Cambodian American Council Starts Fund Drive
The Cambodian American National Council, which is based in Central Ohio, has started a major fund-raising drive that would create a full-time staff member in Washington D.C. Their goal is to raise between $50,000 to $100,000 this year. The group will return donor money if they don’t get $50,000. Here is the council’s plans for the Washington office.

As we all know, Washington D.C. is the heart of national politics and where we may potentially be most effective. Maintaining an office in this location will allow CANC to be closer to decision-makers and other organizations that also have similar goals and ideals. Washington D.C. is already home to many national Asian ethnic groups and organizations and if we do not follow suit, we will be left even further behind.

This D.C. office shall serve as the center of all activities of CANC and will coordinate both ongoing projects and internal and administrative matters. Having this office in Washington D. C. will allow CANC to have a presence in the place where many important issues concerning Cambodian-Americans are debated, decided and determined. We wish to have what most other Asian ethnicities currently enjoy. At this time, Cambodian-Americans are without a single national voice in America and we believe an excellent start will be to have this D.C. office.

You can send donations electronically by clicking here or send donations to Cambodian American National Council (CANC), 1450 Sherwood Forest Drive, Dayton, Ohio 45449.

Contact Council President Vi Houi for more information.

Lawlessness Makes Cambodia ‘A Tourists Nightmare‘
On her trip to Cambodia, Arizona Wildcat columnist Karen Raz was assaulted when two teenagers tried to rob her. A policeman watching across the street didn’t intervene on the robbery until she was struck so hard she fell to the ground. Police inaction and additional lawlessness has soured her on the country.

A corrupt government coupled with a predatory police force is a frightening combination.

And it is controlling how people go about their daily lives.

People are afraid to speak up against a government they no longer trust because government censorship rules with an iron fist.

Because the law isn't around for protection, people are paying more than they can afford for cars so thugs can't shoot them and grab their bikes at night.

Taxi drivers lock all car doors, and hotels have armed guards posted at every gate.

Youths with no hope for a better future resort to petty crime. Girls as young as 11 are tricked or sold into the sex trade.

All these facts would seem to make Cambodia a country that tourists should avoid and that investors should skip over.

Callous and lackadaisical police are one of the biggest downsides to the country, although Raz’s hard-line solution is too strong. Cambodia is getting better. But if no one visits or invests, the country would be more likely to embrace thuggery (not move away from it). As more tourists come, more people will complain about apathetic police who refuse to help, which will threaten the chance of greater tourism.

Cambodia should have already addressed police corruption more fully, but hopefully columns like Raz’s will spur reform.

Nearly Half-Million Visit Cambodia in 2004
Tourists arrivals were up 54.6 percent in the first six months of 2004. A total of 482,390 visited the country, according to the Vietnam News Agency.

Former Indochinese Countries Mull Economic Triangle
Several government-run Vietnam news agencies are providing details about the summit between Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam. Plans include linking the three capitol cities with Vietnam’s sea ports, boosting border trade and building new hydroelectric facilities.

EU Boosting Human Rights
The European Union is giving more than $600,000 to Cambodian non-governmental groups to assist in human rights education, greater access to the courts and other areas, according to EUBusiness.com.

Knowing Cambodia: LICADHO
The Cambodian League for the Promotion and Defense of Human Rights (LICADHO) is a non-governmental organization that teaches and defends human rights in Cambodia. It protects and assists victims whose right were violated, scrutinizes the government and judiciary, and tries to create a culture that respects human rights.

LICADHO was founded in 1991 and is a major human rights organization in Cambodia. Staff members throughout the country are implementing programs to solve critical human rights concerns.

According to the group's Web site, LICADHO strives to better the human rights environment in Cambodia through a multi-pronged approach which includes: investigating human rights violations and providing direct assistance and legal advocacy for victims; conducting research and advocacy campaigns on prevalent rights problems; and giving human rights training to the members of the authorities and the public. LICADHO presses for enduring change through advocacy with key decision makers, and by providing reliable comprehensive information about human rights in Cambodia.

KNOWING CAMBODIA is a weekly feature on the Santepheap Weblog that highlights organizations, people and other things that give insight into Cambodia and overseas Cambodians. It appears every Thursday.

Phnom Penh ‘Radioactive With Entrepreneurial Energy’
The Free Lance-Star visited the capitol recently and was impressed with the country’s business savvy.

A visit to Phnom Penh's Central Market--a 1937 domed French building with stall-choked grounds--is a reactor of such energy. From the cabbies and cyclo (imagine a bike-propelled rickshaw) drivers who deliver its patrons, to the small merchants whose diverse wares make Wal-Mart look like a specialty shop, to the child vendors hawking sodas, the hustling market people are a GNP multiplier waiting to happen.

The article ends with this sentence: “This is the voice of Phnom Penh, the music of life triumphant--and the ultimate torture of a monster who failed at everything, save monstrosity.”

Depressing Scenes Amid The Beauty of Angkor
The Associated Press‘ review of Pico Iyer’s new book, Sun After Dark, includes an excerpt that is among the most depressing descriptions of Angkor Wat.

Maybe most compelling, and certainly most unsettling, is Iyer's account of the sprawling Angkor Wat temple complex in Cambodia. Sown with landmines from the days of Pol Pot, Iyer's Angkor is haunted by contraband pedlars, amputees in broken wheelchairs and little girls with cataracts playing with monkeys on strings. With unforgiving sincerity, he writes, "Angkor was the shrill whine of cicada bells issuing from the trees, and the little girl who put a pink water-pistol in her mouth and pulled the trigger."

Iyer’s perspective is one many people can easily drown in. Around so much beauty and opulence is poverty and scars from war. The differences are so stark it’s sometimes depressingly overwhelming, particularly to those who truly empathize with the Cambodian people.

Such reflections are probably a part of any trip to the developing world. Hopefully, they'll lead you to do something positive or charitable for the country while you're there. But these thoughts shouldn’t consume you, either.

‘Peoples Courts’ Take The Place of Real Justice
The Christian Science Monitor discusses the vigilante justice system that has emerged in Cambodia. It is not uncommon to see regular citizens violently converge on a purse snatchers and other thieves. Mob beatings are also common. From the Monitor:

Lynchings, or "people's courts," are occurring, says analysts, because the Cambodian courts and police are widely viewed as corrupt. "While police intervention saved some lives, they frequently refused to act or were complicit in the violence," said a 2003 Human Rights Watch report on Cambodia. Only two people have served prison time for participating in mob killings.

At least 88 such attacks occurred between mid-1999 and December 2003, according to the UN. Though Cambodia's poor law enforcement and a weak judiciary are often blamed for vigilantism, a recent UN report bluntly states, "this is an insufficient explanation." Judges are not properly trained, they lack professionalism and, according to the report, "are too ready to accommodate and too weak to withstand outside interference."

Some legal experts have said the first step to curbing vigilant justice and getting a true rule of law is punishing the country’s biggest criminals: the leaders of the Khmer Rouge.

In Phnom Penh, Do You Stay in the Center or Near The Lake?
Tales of Asia’s Cambodia Forum is discussing good places to stay in Phnom Penh - and whether to stay close or away from Boeng Kak Lake.

Analysis: Hun Sen In Total Control
Asia Times and the Associated Press provide two strong analyses about Cambodia’s government. From the Asia Times:

"Prime Minister Hun Sen's in total control," said Cambodia scholar Margaret Slocomb, predicting he would stay in power "for as long as his health allows him".

"There's no one who can poke a stick at him," said Slocomb, author of The People's Republic of Kampuchea 1979-89; The Revolution After Pol Pot. "He controls the army, the police, all forms of security ... everyone who has a gun," she added. "He's an incredibly astute politician."

The AP notes many Cambodians are more worried than happy and that the new government may bring more bureaucracy than progress.

From Gang Streets To Camp Life
The Boston Globe writes about a camp that takes at-risk Cambodians out of their rough-and-tumble neighborhoods into a summer camp that teaches goal-setting and other skills.

Insights Into Cambodian-American Life
Long Beach-based C-HOPE will discuss recent research about Cambodian-American issues starting at 10 a.m. Saturday in the Soroptomist House on the California State University Long Beach campus. Topics include entrepreneurial women, Khmer families and welfare reform, and several education issues.

Download the flier (Microsoft Word)

‘Monet’s Garden in Indochina’
London’s Independent gives a review of Angkor Village Resort as well as a low-cost alternative: Mom’s Guesthouse.

Pressure Grows For KR Trial
Agence France Presse notes the world is increasing its calls for a Khmer Rouge trial now that Cambodia has a new government.

The Los Angeles Times has called for a quick trial.

The Fort Worth Star-Telegram recalls the victims of the regime by writing about one woman’s exodus from Khmer Rouge-era Cambodia to a wealthy life in Dallas.

The Long Tradition of Silver Craftsmanship
Channel News Asia profiles Khmer silver crafting. It’s worth reading to learn about beautiful and worthwhile memorabilia when you visit Cambodia.

Khmer Movie Theaters: Thumbs Down
Cambodia-based blogger Elijah Penner visited a Khmer movie theater for the first time.

This was not a pleasant experience. Well watched in terms of Khmer television and Chinese films dubbed into Khmer from my home situation, I was in no way surprised by what I saw. However, at home I never sit and watch the TV for more than 5-10 minutes. Words do not go with the mouths of the actors and the acting is atrocious, almost laughable, but in the end just annoying. The one redeeming aspect of this two and a half hour movie was watching various animals speak in Khmer. I could always laugh watching Homeward Bound because it was funny (even though it was a good movie) to watch the dogs communicate in perfect English. Imagine watching rabbits, cats, fish, and birds communicate in a completely different language and..well, just take my word for it, you can laugh. Fortunately Andrea was there too or else I might not have been able to laugh as much. While laughable, these animals seemed to reinforce the Buddhist belief in reincarnation. That’s not as funny but I won’t go into that here.

Maybe you should cross Cambodian movie theaters off your to-do list.

Laos-Cambodia-Thailand-Vietnam Tour
Peregrine Adventures has a new package trip in their newest brochure that includes all four countries.

Every Little Bit Helps
An Arizona man is raising money to help build a school in Cambodia.

‘Obstacles’ Make Phnom Penh Golf a Unique Challenge
The Straits Times takes some cheap shots at the Royal Cambodia Phnom Penh Golf Club. The article arrogantly mocks an invisible water hazard, the rundown halfway house and grubby English translations (though even we admit that villagers walking on to the course to harvest vegetables is beyond the pale). But it also gives the course and some holes a solid review.

Take the par-four 12th, which plays to 389 yards off blue. The only protection here is the handful of shallow bunkers, but even these are tucked so far away that only the best slicers and hookers can find them.

There are some tricky holes though. The eighth is a par-five dog-leg right where a slice goes out of bounds and water traps guard the right. Eleven bunkers line the fairway and the undulating green, which slopes from back to front.

General manager Hou Wen-da says: “This course is not difficult. But every green is sloping, so your reading of the lines must be really sharp.”

It looks like the premier course will be the new Sihanoukville golf course opening later this year.

Japanese Angkor Tourists to Be Asked For Donations
The government and a non-profit organization are hoping to raise $277 from each Japanese tourist visiting Angkor, according to Agence Khmer Presse. The donations will pay for children to attend schools, though I imagine the solicitation will turn off the tourists.

Phnom Penh's 'Surreal' Rental Market
Tale of Asia’s latest Phnom Penh Perspectives column gives us a first-person account of apartment hunting in the capitol. Your real estate agent may be a retired bodyguard who hasn’t shaken his ruffian tendencies. Or you may encounter a landlord with struggles in other areas:

Market economy is something many landlords here still struggle to come to terms with, and foreigners, with their strange habits and their obsession with privacy may as well be Martians to many. Hence real life scenarios such as:

Foreigner: "There appear to be a lot of clothes in this wardrobe. Are you going to empty it before we move in?"

Potential landlord: "No. They belong to grandmother. She comes from the province every second weekend, and on those weekends we suggest you sleep in the lounge as she likes to take the bed."

That’s just one of a half-dozen funny anecdotes. This is a must-read for apartment-hunters or anyone who wants a lighthearted take of the logic-immune segment of Cambodia.

Another Thai to Cambodia Route
Britain’s Travel Trade Gazette (article not online) says Phuket Air plans to add flights from Thailand to Cambodia “via a code-share with Air Cambodia.” The new flights should be underway by the end of 2004.

Taste Cambodia From Two Tour Guides’ Perspectives
The Sacramento Bee questions a pair of new tour company owners about living in Cambodia. Their answers offer some insight into the challenges of living in Cambodia and what services are available for tourists around Angkor.

If this tour company interests you, there is more information about the Journeys Within Tour Co. at the bottom of the article (including rates and contact information).

PP Post on Government Strife
The latest edition of The Phnom Penh Post is up. Its free edition includes reports on the Cambodian government situation, among others.

Both the BBC and Agence France-Presse offer general analyses of the new Cambodian government, too.

Fan of Fiction With a Cambodian Setting?
Scripps Howard News Service reviews “The Reckoning", a new adventure novel.

KNOWING CAMBODIA: Families With Cambodian Children
FamCam, otherwise known as Families with Cambodian Children, was founded to increase communication and build a support system for families with Cambodian children. Their Board of Directors wrote the following mission statement:

FamCam FamCam is a parent support group for families who have adopted or are considering adopting children from Cambodia. FamCam's purpose is to provide education, support, networking and celebration of Cambodian culture throughout the year.

The FamCam website provides lesson plans, resources, and crafts for children of all ages. They have resources for children even as young as 2 years of age. Their lesson plans include lessons on Khmer numbers, consonants, and vowels. These lessons are varied, including practice worksheets, crafts, flashcards and even songs to help the children learn. For children who enjoy arts and crafts they have even provided two in depth, complex crafts. A Monkey Mask Kit is the first craft and “Decorate a Gecko Kit” is the second. A Gecko is a lizard commonly seen in Cambodia.

Hands Around The World is a link provided by FamCam. This organization is a group that gathers a couple times a year for a Family Fun Night or a Weekend get away to renew friendships, meet new people and celebrate an adopted child’s birth land ethnic culture. It has an Asia Culture Day Camp in the Chicago land area.

FamCam’s Board of Directors serves as it volunteer core to implement fundraising projects, organize events, oversee operations, and outreach. There are a total of fourteen people who serve on the Board of Directors. FamCam chapters seem to be spread nationwide. Click on the link to find the chapter nearest you in the chapters section.

To find out more about FamCam and receive an introductory copy of the newsletters, which provides FamCam membership information, write Laurie Fenton at 20 Oakhurst Ave., Ipwich, MA 01938, call (978) 356-5186, or email Laurie at laurie@emilysbooks.com.

KNOWING CAMBODIA is a weekly feature on the Santepheap Weblog that highlights organizations, people and other things that give insight into Cambodia and overseas Cambodians. It appears every Thursday.

Dealing With the Progress and Problems of the 'New' Prime Minister
The BBC covers Hun Sen’s election as prime minister and offers the following analysis:

The burgeoning middle class that had voted for the Sam Rainsy party in significant numbers last year will be disappointed that they are left with almost exactly the same government which called the election.

Sam Rainsy himself is currently out of the country having said that his position within Cambodia is not secure.

Questions also remain over the hasty departure of the acting head of state, Chea Sim, who left the country on Tuesday after suggestions of an internal power struggle within the CPP.

Cambodia's new government looks set to be haunted by many of the political intrigues of its predecessors, our correspondent says.

It seems like, from a tourist's perspective, the country is going to be stable now. Where these last few days leave Cambodia's evolving democracy is anyone's guess.

You can read many of the other Hun Sen election stories here.

One Star No One Wants to See
Cambodia’s star-gazing trend aside, the country would rather be free of Gary Glitter. The courts have been trying to expel the convicted child pornographer but with no luck.

Hun Sen Named Prime Minister. What Next?
Agence France Presse reports the King has nominated Hun Sen to become prime minister and Xinhua expects Cambodia’s congress to approve the nomination Thursday.

Read several stories on the subject here.

Vietnam is welcoming the nomination, while VOA is quoting Cambodian opposition saying the bill that helped form the new government was achieved through intimidation.

For more insight on the tension and political wrangling on this issue, read the Cambodia political news-and-gossip Web site Khmer Intelligence.

Large Poipet Construction Project Underway
Citing the Cambodia Daily, Agence Khmer Presse (third item) says work has started on a $5 million two-lane highway. The road will, among other things, allow Cambodia to create a separate Thai border checkpoint for tourists and another for commercial traffic.

France Agrees to Tourism Pact
Agence Khmer Presse (10th item) is touting a new tourism agreement between France and Cambodia that will provide “mutual benefits between the two countries.” It does not elaborate.

Potential Political Rift Signals Severe Problem
Earlier reports from Agence-France Presse indicated the CPP leader Chea Sim was leaving the country for medical reasons, but AFP is now reporting (UPDATE: Read AFP and The Nation) that he was ordered out of the country by police loyal to Prime Minister Hun Sen.

Police forces loyal to Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen forced the acting head of state Chea Sim out of the country Tuesday in a power struggle within his ruling party, diplomatic sources told AFP.

"They used the police forces under (national police chief) Hok Lundy to surround the house of Chea Sim" in the early hours of the morning, one of the sources told AFP on condition of anonymity.

"Negotiations occurred and the deal was that he had to leave the country with General Hok Lundy escorting him out. They forced him out of the country," he added.

The removal of Chea Sim, who is also president of the long-ruling Cambodian People's Party (CPP), came after he refused to sign a controversial bill into law aimed at resolving a year-long political crisis.

Another section of the article states.

"He was not forced out. He decided himself to go for medical treatment," CPP spokesman Khieu Kanharith told AFP, confirming that Hok Lundy was in Thailand along with other party officials.

He admitted forces had descended around Chea Sim's house, which is next to the senate, but said they had done so at the request of the Constitutional Council which feared there had been a security breach in the area.

A diplomat told AFP that he believed a government would still be formed but under tense circumstances.

"The secret division in the CPP is now an open secret. I think the show will go on but it will be more tense and it won't be good for the country," he told AFP.

Some areas in Phnom Penh experienced blackouts and water cuts Tuesday. Traffic was relatively light and some Cambodians closed up their shops and reported friends staying at home, fearing unrest, which has flared suddenly in the past in Cambodia.

In neighbouring Thailand, Foreign Minister Surakiart Sathirathai said he was closely monitoring the situation.

"There have been no reports of any kind of violence but there has been a significant build-up of political tension," he told reporters.

Meanwhile, The Associated Press reports King Norodom Sihanouk says the new law is causing “severe friction” in the country.

Hun Sen and Chea Sim’s factions within the CPP have always been at odds. But there has never been a public move against one another. It is unheard of. Anyone traveling to Cambodia in the coming weeks should watch this very carefully. This rift could result in either a violent confrontation or, we hope, absolutely nothing.

Fresh Sashimi in Sihanoukville
Tales of Asia’s Sihanoukville column highlights a new Japanese restaurant (among other things). Ku Kai is gets high marks

Dirt cheap! Rotating market-based sashimi at $1 a plate, mains around $2, miso soup at 35 cents, green tea around 20 cents, and cans of Asahi around 65 cents, all frighteningly good. Lovely management, lovely food, and cheap lager. What more do you want? Get there before they come to their senses and raise prices.

The column also highlights the trial and tribulations of the budget traveler sections of Sihanoukville as the city tries to relocate its red-light district.

From Laptop Internet Access to 11 mbps
PoppaLORN’s Cambodia Forum is discussing locales for wired connections that let laptops connect and wireless Internet hot spots.

A ‘Scrubbing of the Soul’
Frida Ghitis writes in The Chicago Tribune (registration required) that justice needs to accompany a cleaning of Cambodia’s “wound.”

For the country to heal its wounds, it must do what some 30 other nations have done when they were serious about moving beyond a history of severe human-rights abuses. Sure, the people at the top should be punished, but that's not enough. Victims and perpetrators must come before a respected commission, before the entire country, and tell their personal truths: What happened? Why did it happen?

Only then will the Cambodian people be able to make peace with their past. Only then will the government have demonstrated a commitment to move forward, with true respect for all human life.

This is maybe one of the best summaries of the modern-day Khmer Rouge situation that’s been published recently.

Location, Governance and People = Good Cambodia?
A columnist for London’s Independent is bullish about Cambodia (last item).

On the other hand, it is hard not to feel that Cambodia will be all right. There has been steady growth for more than a decade and being located in the Mekong peninsula between China and India is not a bad place for a small country. There is growth on either side in Thailand and Vietnam. Governance is still pretty uneven but there is a functioning civil society and a huge demand for education. So why should one feel hopeful about Cambodia but not, say, Argentina, with its far greater stock of resources?

He answers that last question in the final third of the column. There's a lot to take issue with in that column - the Cambodians would disagree about the advantages of being placed between Thailand, Vietnam and China, for example - but this man's opinion is definitely a fresh outlook.

King Calls for Referendum
Xinhua reports that King Norodom Sihanouk wants a referendum on the new law that helped form the new Cambodian government. However, the Senate today approved the law.

Maybe the most depressing thing about this new package vote is that it institutionalizes the complete mistrust that will be a legacy in Cambodian politics for decades to come.

Lowell Khmers Put Culture on Display
The Lowell Sun has a nice summary of the Khmer Cultural Festival in Massachusetts.

Don’t Let Pithy Scams Keep You From Cambodia
How many ways can tourists get scammed in Cambodia? In the past few weeks, we’ve counted the ways. There’s first-floor theft, border visa scams, aggressive border visa scams, Siem Reap visa scams, money-changing scams and taxi driver scams.

In short, when you go to Cambodia there are lots of people looking for ways to take your money.

These scams may sound like they could pinprick you to death. But, on the contrary, they are a reminder to stay on your toes. There are tourist-related scams in every city. In Vietnam, its college kids conspiring with restaurant owners to charge tourists exorbitant bills and splitting the cash. In Greece, it’s club owners and illegal taxi drivers tacking on hidden fees.

Scams are a part of the landscape for any tourist adventure. In some cases, they may make a good “war story” when you return home.

But, primarily, scam reminders are just a way to let you navigate better in Cambodia so you can enjoy the country better. Don’t let fear of a rip-off keep you from heading overseas.

Keep An Eye on Chiang Mai Links With Cambodia
Thailand’s Prime Minister’s Office announced it is moving ahead with plans to make Chiang Mai an airline hub for regional tourist centers (including Siem Reap). It could be in place by 2006.

Bird Flu Still in Cambodia
Medical News quotes a Food and Agricultural Organization official: "After the major outbreaks of a few months ago, affected countries succeeded in bringing disease under control. But the new outbreaks clearly demonstrate that the virus continues to circulate in parts of the region and new cases might flare up in future, posing a continuing threat to human health.”

Wives Getting AIDS At Startling Rate
The BBC touches on a abhorrent trend: that Cambodian men are bringing AIDS back to their wives and infecting them.

Angkor Wat on All-Star UNESCO Travel Tour
The Toronto Star reports that Angkor Wat is included in new travel packages that take travelers jet-setting to some of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. The price tag for the trips: $22,000 to $47,000 a person!

Rusty Bottle Tops to Western Union: This Blog Shows It All
Something few guidebooks (or Weblogs) discuss is the tiny everyday-life details in Cambodia. Charlie Dittmeier's Life in Cambodia does a nice job doing just that. You won’t get any fresh entries until August (he’s back in the States for now), but read through old entries for unique insights.

Analysis: Coalition or Not, CPP Still Runs Cambodia
The Economist offers a critical review of Cambodia's political situation

For all its bluster of the past year, FUNCINPEC seems no more willing to stand up to the CPP than during the parties' two previous coalition governments. In other words, it has taken Cambodia a year to get back to where it started.

From two prime ministers to “package votes,” Cambodia’s governmental structure has always been up for revision come election time. That's not so uncommon in any new government, but one wonders when the tinkering will stop and each side will begin respecting their democratic government as an institution.

Read more government stories here and here.

Also, Agence France Presse is reporting (article not online) that King Norodom Sihanouk will delay his abdication.

"I will delay my abdication in order to avoid any confusion over me being in dispute or upset with any important dignitaries or politicians," King Sihanouk said in a statement in Khmer.

"I have decided to abdicate because I am too old and I also have some health problems. I am following the model of some European kings and queens ... whom I have always respected deeply," he said.

Olympic Team Preparing for Athens
Cambodia will send 16 athletes, including swimmers, to the summer games. But the group is in desperate need of funding.

Knowing Cambodia: Rajana Society
Legacy is a word that frequently is associated with the inheritance of money. However, legacy goes beyond money and includes the very important aspect of arts and culture passed on from generation to generation. Customs, rituals, art, literature and the like all go into making up the profile of any people or nation. Unless it is preserved it is doomed to die a slow death.

Relative to Cambodia, there is a society, the Rajana Society, at the University of Washington in Seattle, Washington that has as its mission the promotion and advancement of Khmer art and entertainment.

Their objective is to inform and educate the public about Khmer art and entertainment as well as to reach out to Khmer youth for them to gain involvement and experience with the culture that is their legacy. The Rajana Society also provides assistance and support for aspiring Khmer and Khmer artists who demonstrate interest in art and entertainment. It is their purpose and within their scope to promote and to support both Cambodian and non-Cambodian artists.

You can reach the Rajana Society at:
University of Washington
3931 Brooklyn Ave NE
Box 355650
Seattle, WA 98105

KNOWING CAMBODIA is a weekly feature on the Santepheap Weblog that highlights organizations, people and other things that give insight into Cambodia and overseas Cambodians. It appears every Thursday.

Sex, Drugs and Cambodia
Salon (subscription required) has a Q & A with the authors of U.N. memoir Emergency Sex and Other Desperate Measures that includes some snippets about life in Cambodia during the early 1990s.

Controversy Looms As Cambodian Government is Sworn In
Cambodia government was sworn in finally (VOA, Kyodo and AFP).

Thursday's legislative sleight of hand, which diplomats say appears to be operating in a legal gray area, allows for Hun Sen and Ranariddh to be jointly elected to their top positions in the new administration by a show of hands.

Such a move prevents renegade politicians secretly crossing party or factional lines and demonstrates the ongoing climate of suspicion among Cambodia's politicians.

The session was also overshadowed by King Norodom Sihanouk's threat on Tuesday to abdicate and remain in exile in North Korea, where he has been waiting out the crisis for months, after being sidelined during the saga.

Opposition politicians boycotted the assembly. Read more and here.

Dengue Deaths Down by Two-Thirds
Agence-France Presse said dengue fever deaths in Cambodia are down to 26 for the first six months of the year, a drop of 68 percent.

Instead of Mad Cow, It’s Cow Madness
Agence-France Presse reports ill Cambodians are converging on a mystical cow they think can cure it. Mystical animals and infants regularly pop-up in the countryside (each about as equally effective).

Popular Expatriate Clinic Goes Online
Tropical & Travellers Medical Services, a Phnom Penh clinic popular with expatriates, has a new Web site. It is expected to expand soon.

KR Leader in Thailand. Arrest Him Now.
The Associated Press is reporting that Ieng Sary (fourth item), probably the highest-ranking and most-responsible member of the Khmer Rouge alive today, is getting a check-up in a Thai hospital. Kyodo reports he is in critical condition.

The U.S. or another country should save Cambodia the trouble and take him into custody. Along with being the most notorious living Khmer Rouge member, he’s also the most well protected in Cambodia. He lives in Pailin as part of a peace agreement negotiated in the mid-1990s.

Isn't there a lawsuit somewhere against Ieng Sary like the one that put Augusto Pinochet under arrest in the late 1990s?

Learn About Countryside Crickets and Khmer Architecture
The latest edition of The Scene is online and is full of tales for tourists. It highlights the architecure of Khmer Buddhist temples, life in a floating village and cricket season in the provinces. The architecture story is particularly interesting because of the photography, history and inclusion of off the-beaten-path Vihara Athaross temple in Kandal province.

King Threatening to Abdicate Throne Over New Gov‘t
Agence France Presse (article not online, UPDATE: read Radio Australia version) has said King Norodom Sihanouk will abdicate his throne over plans to amend the Cambodian constitution. The King had said before he is unhappy over the political maneuvers made to forge the new government. But it’s hard to determine how serious this is, according to the AFP story.

Diplomats noted the king has made such announcements before and suggested he could simply be signaling that he wants the parties to talk to him directly about developments.

"Maybe it's a signal to them to say, look, you guys better come and see me and consult me," one Phnom Penh-based diplomat said.

The king has traditionally enjoyed a role as deal-broker in Cambodia's political crises, but this time the parties reached an agreement alone.

The king said he would ask to stay in North Korea after his abdication and stay out of politics.

Tourists on the First Floor Need to Stay Sharp
Tales of Asia is warning Siem Reap travelers staying on the first floors of hotels and guesthouses to double-check the security of the windows.

If you are staying on the ground floor of a guesthouse check the windows and screens. Although almost all guesthouses will have some sort of metal grating that will prevent someone from entering the room, tricky thiefs can, using a variety of implements attached to the end of the stick, pull small objects out of the room and into their hands such as wallets, telephones, etc. Most guesthouses do not have locking screens so it's only a matter of carefully sliding the screen open. However, even if the screen locks, thiefs can very quietly cut a screen. Said crime will almost always occur at night.

The moral of the story is that if you're on the ground floor of a guesthouse, keep your valuables someplace where they can't be surreptitiously removed by a thief in the predescribed manner.

For total piece of mind, you may want to seek out guest rooms on the third floor. But, if that doesn’t work, keep your most valuable items (cash, etc.) with you when you leave a room and definitely do not keep anything laying on table tops or other areas.

As Crime Drops, Cambodia Tries Community Policing
Xinhua (article not online) is reporting that serious crimes like rape, murder, robbery and human trafficking are down in Phnom Penh for the first six for the first six months of 2004 compared to the first half of last year. Two-hundred sixty serious crimes were reported in the first six months, compared to 485 such cases in the same period last year. These stats are notoriously shoddy, but at least it’s some indicator that crime in the capitol is down.

Robberies, the item that will probably concern travelers the most, dropped from 269 to 234, according to Xinhua.

On a lighter note, Agence France Presse (article not online) is reporting that Cambodia will distribute 228 bicycles to the Phnom Penh police force. "Bikes are slower than motorbikes, so police will be able to provide protection more obviously and they will also be able to easily stop from house to house to chat with local people and understand their concerns," Seng Rathanak, one of the capital's district deputy governors, told AFP. "This, in turn, will increase cooperation between police and people." One police commander made another observation: People will laugh at biking cops.

Cambodia Stargazing Continued…
Cambodia truly is a haven for the famous. Ashley Judd is on her way and now so is Rupert Everett. Plus, Cambodia has offered citizenship to Angelina Jolie.

Perhaps the government can convince each to buy homes in Kep and return that area to its 1960s elite resort status?

Seeking Travel Insurance in Cambodia?
Khmer440.com is discussing the options of travel insurance in Cambodia. Indochine is one company that offers medical insurance, among others.

Another Angkor Success Story
Great news for anyone who loves the Angkor Temples. The BBC (and other media outlets) is reporting that Unesco has removed it from a list of in-danger locations.

The Angkor complex had deteriorated due to illegal excavation, pillaging and landmines, Unesco said.

However, the preservation of the 400sq km (154sq mile) site was "reasonably secure" and the restoration activities co-ordinated by Unesco since 1993 could be considered a "success story", the committee said.

‘Virgin Seekers’ An Increasing Evil in Sex Tourism
The Phnom Penh Post features a blood-chilling article about foreign tourists' increasing demand for virgins, which sources say is pushing more women into the sex trade. This so-called virgin-seeking is, sadly, a common request for many foreigners, but the fact it is an increasingly large part of the sex industry shows there’s yet another front Cambodian officials need to focus on.

Meanwhile, Agence France Presse reports a Cambodian woman has been convicted of trafficking her own children, another depressingly common occurrence (she had been arrested before for the same charge). Thankfully, Cambodian courts sentenced her to 15 years in prison.

But, considering the system of bribery in Cambodia, how much time will she serve?

FAMOUS PEOPLE IN CAMBODIA! FAMOUS PEOPLE IN CAMBODIA!!
Reuters has a funny story about Cambodia’s latest industry: A feel-good headline factory for international celebrities. Every month an A-list (or almost A-list) celeb has come to the Island of Peace.

The stream of celebs is bemusing many locals, including Michael Hayes, proprietor of the Phnom Penh Post newspaper, who himself had a brief brush with stardom, type-cast as a jaded and cynical expat in Matt Dillon's Cambodian movie City of Ghosts.

"As one movie star to another, I welcome all my fellow actors to Cambodia and look forward to meeting them - the more the merrier, whoever they are," said Hayes, who might be accused of being out of touch with the latest gossip from Los Angeles.

"Ashley Judd? Who's she? Is she famous? Please, just send Angelina back. We like her."

Ashley Judd is coming to Cambodia this week.

Remembering Cambodia’s Struggle on July 4
Americans were paying attention to Cambodian-Americans this Fourth of July.

Chantra Gooch talks about her life before, during and after the Khmer Rouge regime Utah’s The Spectrum

Timothy Chhim (second item) talks about his life in New York’s Journal News.

Vanna Phim told her story in The Lowell Sun.

Corruption, Not Competition, Is Garment Industry’s Biggest Challenge
The Phnom Penh Post published an interesting interview with Ken Loo, secretary general of the Garment Manufacturers Association in Cambodia.

We are being sucked dry by the unofficial fees. This gives us higher production costs. I am talking about corruption, bribery. But also bureaucracy: there are simply too many steps in the process. So both need to be decreased. One without the other is not good enough. Things have improved, but we need more quick and dramatic changes. I am not saying the government is not responding enough. But I am saying they need to respond in a way that is more in keeping with the urgency the industry is in. We only have six months to go."

Returnee Aid Program Seeking Donations
The Returnee Assistance Project has filed its June report. You can now donate directly to the project, which helps resettle Cambodian-Americans sent back to Cambodia, by going to Rap.digitaldividedata.org. Additional donation details are at the end of the report.

Inside The Killing Fields Museum
The Seattle Post-Intelligencer gives good insight and descriptions of the new Killing Fields Museum and its creator, Dara Duong.

Pakistan To Give Cambodia $10 Million Credit
Pakistan Press International (article not online) says Pakistan may offer a $10 million export credit to Cambodia, which is supporting Pakistan's bid to enter the Asean Regional Forum. It will also open the door for Pakistani exports into Cambodia.

Santepheap Off For Fourth of July Holiday
There will be no posting today as the Pookai Book Project staff observes the July 4 holiday.

Drink in Life During the Rainy Season
If you’re wondering what the rainy season is like, Tale of Asia’s July update includes a nice anecdote of a downpour in Siem Reap.

First it was hot. Unbearably hot this year. Then when we should have had rain we only had an occasional drizzle and in the process we watched the Tonle Sap sink lower, and lower, and lower, and reach lows never seen before in anyone’s present lifetime. But alas, in mid-June those long forgotten rains finally arrived. And it rained. And it rained. And it rained. Twice this month downtown Siem Reap was under half a meter of water. Motodops attached outboard motors to their bikes and stood outside bars shouting "motoboat" to all who needed a lift to the next bar. The speedboat from Phnom Penh eschewed the docks and dropped off guests at their chosen guesthouses, taking the commissions for themselves. Beggars took to casting nets on Sivatha Street – you know teach a man to fish and all that. The Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau team turned up and claims to have made a "discovery". A couple of enterprising expats started a new local business venture - Dive Angkor (PADI certified). And seriously (well, the half meter of water bit was true), one guesthouse had the misfortune of finding out what happens when it rains like this and their neighbor has a ton of sand dumped on the side of the road... where the water would flow away... good thing the guesthouse is owned by a plumber. But opportunity knocks but once and they put fish on the specials board with the caveat the guests had to step out to the front yard and catch the fish themselves.

So things have balanced out and Siem Reap seems, at least climatologically speaking, to be returning to normal.

The update also includes good rain-related news for travelers: the road to Poipet is holding up well in both Siem Reap and Banteay Meanchey.

Common Sense Protects You From Border, Visa Scams
Tales of Asia also has a follow-up on the visa border scam we mentioned yesterday, as well as a list of the top four scams in Poipet:

Lie #1: "US dollars are no longer accepted in Cambodia."
US dollars have been the de facto currency of Cambodia for years and will continue to be for years to come.

Lie #2: "You need to change to riel as it's part of a new program to encourage Khmer(-ness, spirit, nationality, etc.) and we are getting rid of the US dollar."
As I said, US dollars have been the de facto currency of Cambodia for years and will continue to be for years to come. The government quite likes the dollar and is showing no sign of changing their mind about this. And you certainly didn't pay for your visa in riels now did you?

Lie #3: "The rates in Siem Reap are much worse."
Rates are the same throughout the country.

Lie #4: "There are no money changing facilities in Siem Reap."
Nonsense. There are dozens. As a matter of fact there are money changers in almost every town in the country. And why would some bumf**k town have moneychangers while tourist central Siem Reap, doesn't?

Tourists should write these lies on the inside cover of their guidebooks.

Taking a Stand on Khmer Rouge Trials
Kudos to The Christian Science Monitor for keeping the KR trials in the public eye.

Lonely Planet Joins Pookai’s Corporate Donor Program
Thanks to Lonely Planet, which became the first company to join our corporate donor program. Lonely Planet's link on the left-hand side takes you right to their Cambodia section.

Pearnik: Siem Reap Scams, Sihanoukville Coffee and Sinking Boats(!)
The July edition of Bayon Pearnik (pdf) is out and includes a ton of great information. The second-installment of its off-the-beaten-path trip on old Angkor roads is in there (read about part one) as are some good “Sihanoukville Snippets,” including the location of the best coffee in town (Espresso Kampuchea).

The Pearnik also informs us of a new visa scam popping up in Siem Reap.

Scam alert – the dodgy visa scam has hit Siem Reap. A couple of weeks ago I went to get the missus a six-month visa extension and it came back with one of those useless Ministry of Foreign Affairs NGO gratis “visas” referenced to the Ministry of Public Works and Transport and bearing the signature of some character named Kim Sovanna. The only valid visa extensions in Cambodia bear the signature of Hok Lundy and no one else, and will be referenced not to some ministry, but to the visa number of the original visa that got you in the country.

When I brought this to the attention of the travel agency in Siem Reap I predictably got nowhere as they in all likelihood have been scammed as well, evidenced by the thorough confusion that appeared on the two girls’ faces when I produced my own passport and one-year extension bearing the proper Hok Lundy signature.

But confusion or not they agreed (in writing!) to give me a refund should the visa be unusable. I don’t know yet because I’m sitting in Bangkok at the moment and we haven’t tried re-entering and won’t until next week, but I can guess well enough what’s going to happen… oh, and if you’re wondering, we had no problem leaving because the original 30-day visa had yet to expire and they never even saw the “extension”.

Funny thing, when one of the girls at the agency called Phnom Penh to see what was up with this silly sticker, the excuse came back that because we had a visa purchased at the embassy in Bangkok and not on arrival, they couldn’t give us a normal extension yadda yadda. I imagine she was really really hoping that one way or another this “visa” would get the missus back in the country come July 1. Anyway… I’ll fill you in next month as to how this drama sorts itself out.

Also, boat-travelers will want to check out a news item in Cockroach Corner headlined “Express boats sinking,” although they really aren’t sinking.

Critical Rule for Tourists: No Flashbulbs Around Elephants
Agence France Presse and The Associated Press are reporting on a tourist who was trampled by an elephant (he suffered broken ribs). Authorities think the animal was enraged by the tourist’s camera flash.

Squatters Ordered Removed From Angkor
Hun Sen has ordered squatters removed from around Angkor Wat, according to Xinhua (article not online), which cites a Cambodia Daily report.

In a national directive dated to June 23, Hun Sen said the squatters had "caused disorder" by burning forests to create parking spaces and building concrete structures to sell souvenirs and gasoline.

Due to all the squatters were without the permission of the Apsara Authority, "these activities will undermine the rule of law and the country's development goals if they are not prevented," the premier said.

Hun Sen also ordered that all buildings illegally built be removed within 45 days of the directive.

Since it sounds like some of the squatters were also vendors, we hope the government will provide space for them to keep selling and, more importantly, providing for their families.

Vietnam Gets Into Container Transport
Vietnam News Agency says a local firm will transport containers from Ho Chi Minh City to Phnom Penh. It says transit cargo to Cambodia via Viet Nam is mainly transported from China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, South Korea and Japan

Business Roundup: Massive Road Work Coming, Thai Trade Down
Two interesting economic tidbits. The New Straits Times Press (article not online) reports that Muhibbah Engineering Bhd is expected to bid $80 million for construction jobs in Cambodia this year, which includes road reconstruction from the Thai border town of Sisophon to Siem Reap. Muhibbah is also going for a multimillion-dollar power plant job.

Plus, Xinhua (article not online) is reporting that the total trade between Thailand and Cambodia decreased from $365.8 million in the first five months of 2003 to $298.6 million dollars in the same period of 2004.

Knowing Cambodia: Children of the Garbage Fields

By Antonio Graceffo, special for The Pookai Book Project

The air was hot, thick and sickeningly sweet, with countless odors of decay. Smoke rose up from the putrid waste. Sameth, my Khmer stringer, and I stepped off the motorcycle, and sank several inches into foul mud. Garbage was piled stories high, covering the kilometers long dump site. People, the wretchedly poor, clad only in rags, swarmed over the heaps of refuse, like ants, searching out the saleable morsels, that would keep them alive, to pick trash another day.

"I told you they were poor." Said Sameth, as if I hadn't believed him. And, in a way, I hadn't. We've all read about the desperate poor who comb the trash heaps of Sao Paolo and Rio. But somehow, the depth, the sheer magnitude of human suffering could only be appreciated when experience at first hand.

We had only been in the dump a few minutes, and I was already nauseous. Sameth was choking back bile. We would be leaving soon. But to the dwellers of the trash dump at Stung Mien Jai, this was their home. And, like prisoners on a life sentence, they would never be leaving. Trying to imagine what depths of poverty would drive human beings to such a desperate existence, it seemed ironic, that we were only 70 Km from the posh hotels and foreigner hangouts of Phnom Penh.

As often happens, I was shy about taking photos of the disadvantaged, as they went about their grizzly work. I didn't want to be another tourist, come to gawk at human misfortune. But there was a story here that needed to be told. As a journalist you are taught to disassociate yourself from the story. At best, you should become an extension of your camera, recording, but not feeling the dramas which pass through your lens. No one teaches you to loose your optimism. But that goes too, as you realize that nothing you write will make a difference. It is more likely that a reader will use this story as a coaster, to keep rings of the coffee table, than that someone would step in and help these people.

Read the whole thing

KNOWING CAMBODIA is a weekly feature on the Santepheap Weblog that highlights organizations, people and other things that give insight into Cambodia and overseas Cambodians. It appears every Thursday.

Foreign Correspondents Club Opens Siem Reap Location
The Foreign Correspondents Club, a picturesque Phnom Penh hot-spot for tourists and expatriates alike, is opening a Siem Reap office, according to The Sydney Morning Herald's Sydney magazine. According to the report:

Described as a "glowing white, modern cube", the new FCC Angkor is cool and glitzy. It will have 33 rooms (each with cable TV and broadband), a restaurant, gardens and an Art Deco bar. Opening in November 2004, it is already taking bookings. Double rooms from $170, plus 10 per cent VAT. Foreign Correspondents' Club, Pokambor Avenue, Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Now Comes the Hard Part: Governing
Here’s the Associated Press report on the formal formation of Cambodia’s government.

Swiss Money Going to Cambodian Hospitals
After first balking, the Swiss government has now agreed to fund local Cambodian children’s hospitals run by Beat Richner.